One of the Shapeoko XXL’s biggest problems

The sag in the middle kills me. But I think I may have alleviated that issue. There are three steel “straps” connecting the front and back L rail supports.

Those “straps” are unsupported and as time goes on, it’s inevitable that the sag will continue to increase. The current idea is place 1x6x36″ pine boards underneath the straps, fully supporting the sag. To me, I feel like that will solve the problem, right?

brb.

Custom Laser Engraved RTIC/YETI Cups

My previous post was about designing and building a rotary device for the CO2 laser cutter for this particular job. I ran into one problem when designing it. I had originally used HTD 5m belt and I believe it was just too big of a belt and created some free play/backlash. So I redesigned the entire rotary and used GT2 MXL belt, the same belt that we use on 3D printers. I also ditched the 3D printed bushings and incorporated 608z bearings (3 of them total). And I changed out the 10mm shaft for an 8mm shaft.

Cleaning up the engraving took some elbow grease. Engraved with air assist off, you will still get some sticky debris. Use rubbing alcohol to take off the sticky residue and then use a magic eraser sponge to restore the stainless steel shine.

Engraving glass is next!

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Focusing the Laser Machine (without autofocus)

A few of my customers had some trouble understanding how to properly focus their new laser cutter that is equipped with a manual Z table. I should have drawn this up a while ago.

Take your laser focus tool. It’s usually laser cut out of acrylic. lay it down onto the top of the stock on it’s side, not flat. Raise your table until your focus tool gently touches the bottom of the laser nozzle. You are all focused. It wouldn’t be a bad idea to replicate and cut another tool.

Maybe that should be the first project after receiving the machine.

Download the PDF here: Laser Machine Focusing Illustration

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